Interview With Teresa Mónica Calado: Little Sister Of Indiana Jones

Teresa Monica Calado

Can you tell us a bit about your background and how you ended up in Dubai?

Well, as Portuguese, I believe, discover the world is in my blood. I am from Portugal from a small village from the countryside called Muge, around 82 kms from the capital, Lisbon, with no more than 2500 people, where everyone knows everyone. This village is very important in terms of History and Archaeology worldwide because of many unique archaeological sites from the Stone Age, more precisely the the Mesolithic or Middle Stone Age. I remember very young, going with my friends, riding our bycicles to discover the strange stones and axes that were all over the place. But very young I was also fascinated with the world of Law. I remember always saying my parents that I wanted to be a lawyer. But at the same time I remember always saying that I did not want to work all my live inside four walls. Free spirit I guess and adventure always coming first. University came and I went to study Law. Beside I liked some subjects, but I was not happy at all. I really didnt feel that was my destiny. So I changed. I went to study History and Archaeology in the Universty of Lisbon. And its my profession. I worked as a field archaeologists until I came to Dubai. Why leaving my country? Like I like to say joking, I am an archaeologist, I am the little sister of Indiana Jones, so, for sure I couldnt stay in the same place. I love to know things, discover new ways, new people, so adventure i believe is part of me. Of course when I moved I searched for a better life also, in all ways, monetary, security, etc. Why UAE and Dubai? Well, as Portugal as a strong Islamic presence, and some of the archaeological sites I worked were from that historical period, and being UAE a country in expansion and very dynamic in the cultural field, I believe this was the most important reason. And Portugal has a very strong presence in the Gulf. One of the reasons, that most people, specially being here in the summer find very strange, it was the hot weather. Honestly I dont like the extreme humidity during summer time, but I love hot weather. Even 50 degrees. And because I believe nothing happens by chance, while I was in the university, I went to study Arabic. I remember that the language always sound very pleasant in my ears. And after the events of 9/11, I decided to study to understand more about such a different culture. At this time it was not at all in my mind to leave my country, much less coming to the Middle East. I studied almost one year, not more, this back in 2002, because I had all the University duties, and I didnt have much time to proceed. Or maybe, like I say, and someone here in Dubai once told me, it is written in my genes, nothing happens by chance, even if we dont see it. I am not fluent. Not at all. I should study more, much much more, but I am trying my best. And I am a person that is not afraid of what is different from me. Places, persons, cultures, etc. Quite the opposite. I like to know. To understand. So, in the New Years Eve of 2014, I was with my family having dinner, and we were watching the fireworks from all over the world in the news, and Dubai and Burj Khalifa came and I remember that I pointed to the TV and said, “next year I will be there”. No one cared of course, thought that I was joking. Day 3 of January 2015 I went alone to a Travel Agency and booked my ticket to Dubai. Because I was in one archaeological excavation, I couldn’t come in the beginning of the year, so I booked the ticket for the 1st of April. No one believed again. But it was very true. Not a prank of April Fool’s Day. I didn’t know anyone, I didn’t had a job. Not much money with me. Just me and my old computer to apply here and for sure with me here it would be more easy to go to interviews. This was my journey to UAE and Dubai.

What inspired you to become an ambassador of Emirati and Arab culture?

When I arrived the country, the first thing that I saw while walking out of the airport it was a huge sandstorm. Nothing that I had experienced before in my life. One of the things that my guests always tell me is that they can see in my face and eyes that I really like to live here. When I ask why, they always answer me with the same words. “Because your eyes shine when you talk, explain, show us the country and culture.” This may seem very esoteric and poetic, but when I walked through that sandstorm, I felt that I reached home.

I can’t translate in words the love, excitement, will, to learn more and more about the people and culture. After 9 years, when locals cross my path, I still stare at them like the first day. I have one thing very good with me, maybe because of being an archaeologist, I like to know “why”. From where it comes from, what is the background, the roots, the way of acting, the behavior. Everything. And because of that I can say that it is easy for me to be open to different cultures, and even if sometimes I don’t agree, but I must respect. When we know the “whys” it is much easier to understand.

And it is that that I try to do. And it is for that. that I study every day, and research, and ask locals. In case of doubt always ask locals. They are the ones who know. To show people from around the world, mostly of course, Portuguese speakers, that our way is not the only way and that there is a reason for everything. From the way of dressing, to the food, to the behaviors, architecture, etc. And above all, that Dubai don’t have 50 years like everyone says. I don’t agree with this sentence at all. I am always saying that before the oil this was not just sand and camels. The people that built this Dubai and UAE and most of the countries from the Middle East have a history. And it was and is, that history and background that led them to build what we see today. A vison of the future but never forgetting the past. One of my favorite quotes is from the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan:

“He who does not know his past cannot make the best of his present and future, for it is from the past that we learn.”

I never thought to be Tour Guide in my life. When I came, my first job was in a shop, as a translator to Portuguese speaking people, and it was my first contact with tourism. This job of course was always a temporary job while I was searching in my area. And it was a Portuguese colleague, that I met while already in Dubai, who started to instill in me the idea of becoming a tourist guide, that I was always talking about the history and that for sure it was a better way even to know more people from my field and, of course, not being inside four walls. She knew that I was not happy there. At first, stubbornly, I always said no, that it wasn't for me. But every single day she was talking about that.

And I decided that maybe she was right, and it was for sure near my field, and a huge life experience for me. And it is. And this is what inspires me every day.

As an archaeologist and tour guide, what do you find most fascinating about the culture and history of the UAE and the Middle East?

The importance that is given to maintain the roots. As an archaeologist I really admire the importance and study about the past. The work that is done in the field of discovering and preserving the sites and historical buildings. I can’t complain about my country in that field, but in a great number of countries we don’t see that. They just think about the future, and in many cases this past is destroyed in the name of evolution. Of course. as a historian I couldn’t disagree more. Again, I quote Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. UAE is doing an amazing job in discovering and preserving the past.

One of my favorite civilizations, it is Mesopotamia. “Mesopotamia is the site of the earliest developments of the Neolithic Revolution from around 10,000 BC. It has been identified as having "inspired some of the most important developments in human history, including the invention of the wheel, the planting of the first cereal crops, and the development of cursive script, mathematics, astronomy, and agriculture”. It is recognized as the cradle of some of the world's earliest civilizations.” I totally agree with this description.

Archaeology as a science already proved it.

UAE and all Middle East interacted and suffered from the influence of this great civilization with no doubt as proved in many archaeological sites in UAE. As a tourist guide, one of the things that fascinates me most is the combination of old and new. Everything they do has a meaning. Everything tells a story. Nothing is done by chance. History, culture, the past are always present in the modern, in what is new. The most modern building is inspired by some historical or cultural fact. As a tourist guide, being able to present the tallest buildings in the world and introduce history and culture with them is fascinating. Even those less passionate about history will be interested.

And one thing that really amazes me, is the youth. If your everyday dress is the traditional attire, for sure your culture and roots will not be diluted in the midst of so much modernity and external influences and people.

What are some common misconceptions people have about the Middle East that you hope to dispel through your work?

Well, I can mention a full notebook. But the most asked question is in relation to women, the role of women in society, work, and of course, about clothes. Both man and woman. Regarding to clothes, I have most of the pieces with me, both men and women, that I bring everyday for the tours, and I put them on while I explain the background, from where it came, the regional differences, etc. Specially regarding to women, I ask them if they want to try, usually is a yes, for them to see that, maybe what they think, is not as bad as they imagine. And guess what? Even the one’s that say no in the beginning are the one’s that take more selfies with the Niqab. You need to offer knowledge to people. It makes all the difference. That the Arabs are all rich. And as I often say jokingly, it would be nice if everyone had an oil well in their backyard, but unfortunately this is not the reality for the majority of the population. People work and work hard to get what they want, just like everywhere. And consequently, those who live in Dubai are super rich. All. As I also often joke, no, unfortunately, I've already eaten it a few times, it's true, but we don't eat gold every day and our basic transportation isn't a Lamborghini. And many many many more. Internet is full of goofy things. And that is why if people have the means and the opportunity, should travel and see with their own eyes.

But is very important the role of a Tour Guide. Because, at least me, I don’t talk just about history or tall buildings. I live here. I can talk about the experience as a person that actually goes to the grocery, to next coffee, to the doctor, to public repartition, everyday things. Like everywhere in the world. If I am always successful in changing mainly ideas? Not always. But in most cases I can say yes. I don't want to sound arrogant, but it's very rewarding at the end of the day, especially women, to thank me because I changed their view of this world. Not agreeing with everything, they don't need to, but knowing at least the reasons, the background, the “whys” like I say, so that they can respect and not disdain or diminish what is different and above all, respect even not agreeing. I am an archaeologist above all. Why is our first question.

Can you describe a typical day in your life as an archaeologist and cultural ambassador in Dubai?

As an archaeologist, I introduce culture and explain it with practical knowledge. Portugal has 800 years of Islamic presence and as such I had the opportunity to work directly with the remains of our ancestors.

Of course, differences will have to be taken into account, there are local practices, from the Middle East, that we do not find on the ground in Europe, but to a large extent there was this cultural exchange and which are still found in the field today. This factor allows me to explain with more knowledge and introduce details that general knowledge does not have. I can give a very practical example: Most tourists are curious about the fact that we don't see cemeteries around the city because in the West, it's normal to pass them within cities and even though there are no signs indicating "Cemetery", they are recognized by mausoleums or grave stones so large that are visible beyond the cemetery walls.

Nowadays, in this region, with cities growing so quickly, cemeteries are inevitably located within cities, but I have the opportunity to explain several facts about them. Some more obvious are that, although we often pass by them, the cemeteries are not as noticeable because there is no custom of using lapidary stones or large monuments. Obviously there are regional practices that differ, also in the Middle East, but the idea behind this factor is that in the cemetery and in the mosque there is no social status. Everyone is the same. I can also explain that in archaeological sites, we know the limits of Muslim cities when we find their cemeteries. Islam divides the city of the living from the city of the dead.

And in even more detail, I can explain the method of burial, which continues to be the same as in ancient times. In the context of archaeological excavations, archaeologists can immediately distinguish without any associated material culture such as rings, coins, ceramic material, etc., whether they are Muslims or not. Because of the way they are buried. It is unique and not used in any other culture. I can say that I excavate hundreds of burials. To help them understand better, I show them photos of specific cases in which I worked directly in excavations so that they can get a clearer idea of what I am explaining. I believe this type of knowledge works to my advantage. Many details don’t come in the books.

What are some of the most memorable cultural experiences or attractions you have encountered in the UAE?

The cultural experiences I most cherish is to have the opportunity to deal with locals. And locals just not from the UAE. I can say I have some very good friends now from all the Middle East and more Asian countries. One thing that I like to do when I am free is to go, for example to the old Dubai, and seat on the floor with people from Yemen and watch them doing business and discussing the prices.

This is just one example. And I ask. I ask almost everything that I have doubts about. And I learn. Reading books, and I can say I have now a good library at home, doesn’t give me these experiences or knowledge. Even being a tour guide now for almost a decade, I keep going and enrolling in cultural experiences whenever I know that the tour guide is Emirati, or the experience includes locals. We have a few associations in Dubai that can give us this opportunity. I know that I always learn something new.

Attractions that I can’t get tired. And now leaving a bit the field of History, is going and visit the Dubai Fountains. The mix of the old architecture in Souk Al Bahar and the modern with Burj Khalifa, complemented by the lights and fountain shows, it's like it's always the first time every time I go there.

In Abu Dhabi, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Its mesmerizing. I can list much more. UAE is a big country with a lot to visit. But I can say these two are on the top of the list. And I love Khor Fakkan! I love to visit the other Emirates of course specially because I can find in them maybe a bit of what was before the oil. The small cafeterias along the roads where I drink and eat the best food and fresh juices and so cheap!

And the desert! I can tell you that, if still was Bedouin caravans in the desert, you will not see me in the city very often.

How do you use social media to promote Middle Eastern culture and attract visitors to the region?

I started to give more importance to social media when Covid happened, when I found myself closed at home, just like the whole world who went through it. From my room I thought that, in addition to distracting myself, I could share my knowledge and continue to publicize the country, the culture, the region. When I talk, when I show, of course unless it's about specific things about the country and cities of the UAE, but I'm talking about an entire region. Above all when I talk about culture and people. Of course, always safeguarding the fact that there are local customs, from city to city, emirate to emirate, from country to country, but the basis is the same.

And I started to enjoy the experience. In today's world it is the best way to reach people and regardless of age, we have to adapt. I take what I do and share very seriously, because when I study and do research I also learn, but I also like to do it in a light way, so that it reaches people. To talk

about an archaeological site, I think it is not necessary to use academic terms. It's boring and I don't reach people so easily. And whoever says talks about archeology says talking about all subjects. I try to make things above all else make sense. From the way of dressing to the tallest buildings and most innovative projects. Demystify concepts above all. Everything has a “why”.

Attracting tourists to the region is easy, I receive many messages via social media in this regard, which they would like to know, because in this sense the whole aura that surrounds Dubai above all has already done the work for me and for the region as well. And now, of course, not just Dubai. Theregion begins to become more famous, and as incredible as it may seem, all the mysticism of the Arabian Nights is very present in the Western mind.

What I try above all is for people to understand that, despite all the oil and wealth that appears on social media, the cars, the beautiful swimming pools, the hotels, Dubai and the Middle East, as I say so many times, before oil it wasn't just sand and camels. There's much much more. And yes, most people have no idea that Dubai has an archaeological site right in the middle of the city. Not even those who have lived here for years as they often tell me. I also pay attention to those who cannot travel. I receive many messages thanking me for showing them about a place that is part of the imagination, but for various reasons they can’t visit.

When I receive messages, above all from young people who we think only care about cars and luxury (of course there are those too) telling me that they love listening to my stories, I believe I'm on the right track.

I can give a very practical and relatively recent example that showed me this. Yes, because I'm always afraid of being boring, people won't be interested, but after receiving feedback, I see that maybe it's not quite like that. A young man from my country, Influencer, with almost a million followers on YouTube, plus almost a million on Instagram, among others, recently moved to Dubai. Content has nothing to do with history, culture, just luxury and luxury cars, and houses, etc. He was the one who contacted me and asked if I wouldn't mind taking a tour with him but at the same time the tour would be filmed and then posted on YouTube. Of course, I also saw an opportunity to show more about my work.

An hour long YouTube video. Who nowadays, especially younger people, watches one-hour videos? The video had almost 400 thousand views. But the most interesting thing and what made me very happy were the messages I read and even

received. I remember two: "She should have a YouTube channel." Well, I've had it for many years, but not with as many followers. Maybe one day. I've also just started connecting more to social media as I said above. But a message that was sent to me and that I retained was from a young man congratulating me because he never watches videos that last an hour and when he finished he didn't even notice the time passing and that he wanted to hear much more. Having knowledge is good, but perhaps the way in which this knowledge is transmitted is a very important factor. I just was myself, with the passion I have. I may seem very presumptuous perhaps, but for those who often think and feel very little selfesteem or that nothing is right, and that no one sees anything and that they can always be better, (being a perfectionist has a good side, but also a more negative side), I was very happy and grateful for the feedback and impact on people. Since I came, almost 10 years now, I haven't had a vacation, sometimes because I couldn't, sometimes by choice, I continue to try to be better, not for the tourists, but for myself. Sometimes it feels good to feel reward after so much work, effort, battles and many tears along the way.

What advice would you give to someone planning their first trip to the UAE or the Middle East?

The first piece of advice for anyone traveling to the Emirates and the Middle East is to come with an open mind. And that, from my own experience, dealing with, now, thousands of tourists, doesn't happen. Very curious yes, but with many misconceptions. Unfortunately, the West continues to think it knows better. The second and perhaps more important thing is to read about the countries, the rules of the countries, so that they don't go through unpleasant situations like I've seen so many times, like being expelled from places because of the way they dress. When visiting such a different culture, you have to pay attention to local uses and customs. Big cities are open, cosmopolitan cities, but we cannot ignore the fact that they are countries with very different cultures and customs and must be respected. And this applies, I think, anywhere we travel with cultures different from ours, not just the Middle East.

Can you share a story or experience that particularly highlights the rich heritage and hospitality of Arab culture?

Yes! One of the experiences that I loved, and it was quite recent, was being invited to an Iftar at the home of a local. I've had several experiences with natives, I can say that I'm lucky to have some native friends, but I've never experienced going to one's house and being able to interact and see in person what I was often only allowed to know through books. This invitation follows one of the best experiences I didn't have, but am having right now! For many years I had seen advertisements about an experience that takes place every year in Dubai and for various reasons I had never had the opportunity to sign up to participate. I'm talking about the Camel Trek, organized by the Hamdan bin Mohammed Heritage Center. For the first time I gained courage and signed up last year, but due to the chosen dates, and because of work already scheduled, I was unable to do it. But this year, with some effort, I signed up again and it's been a unique experience. People from all over the world who live in the Emirates participate. I still don't know if I will be chosen to participate or not, only 30 will be selected, but just having the opportunity to go to training and share experiences is already very enriching.

Imagine that I am learning to ride a camel! And consequently about desert culture, life in the desert, the Bedouins, what life was like in the desert, about animals, the importance they give to them! It's been fascinating! And even if I'm not chosen this year, next year I'll be there again.

I believe that nothing could be more fascinating and enriching in cultural terms. Having first-hand access and being able to live, not only learn, but learn to live the rich history of these people, is already a unique experience that will stay with me forever. And as I said before, life in the desert and the caravans that traveled along the trade routes fascinate me immensely.

During the holy month of Ramadan this year, we were invited by the coordinator of this event to an Iftar at his home. For me, almost certainly unlike most people, instead of chatting, I find myself observing and seeing and experiencing all the details of a culture that is different from my own. From the way they greet each other, the way they sit, the way they eat, the way they greet each other, showing above all respect for their elders. The food, the way it is served, the sitting on the floor. There are so many details that, after so many years, it still fascinates me to know about them. Simply because there is a reason why things are done the way they are. And trying to find out about them has always been my goal to understand the culture more and more. Sometimes I even fear that I'm being inconvenient because I find myself absorbing every detail and, of course, to do that I often stare at people.

For sure not for bad reasons. And being able to participate, I can say that it was a privilege and I feel very honored and grateful for the invitation and opportunity.

What similarities have you noticed between Portuguese and Emirati culture, especially in terms of hospitality and social interactions? Are there any historical or cultural connections between Portugal and the UAE that you find particularly interesting or surprising?

Yes, there are many similar things between the two cultures. We cannot forget that, despite several centuries past, the Islamic presence in Portugal left its marks. In habits, customs, utensils, practices, etc. In terms of hospitality, I find it quite funny that the similarities are in meals and in the art of receiving. In more specific terms, the guest is most important, the owner of the house is almost always the last to sit and eat. I still see this today with my mother, for example. The abundant table. Wanting the guest to always eat a little more. Wanting the guest to feel at home. Respect for elders. Despite being a European country, Portugal still has well-rooted customs. Family ties. Of course, each case is different, but family ties continue to be very important. And this is seen at family gatherings. Even if there is an argument or another, and this is perhaps normal in large families like mine, but when someone needs it, help is always there. Many things can be named, but these two are a very good example of the similarities between both cultures. About historical connections, not surprising, as an archaeologist of course I already knew about them, but the fact that there are historical connections between the two countries is very interesting.

The reference to the Portuguese presence at a historical level in the Gulf region and in the country, now the United Arab Emirates, is present in any history book. The Portuguese presence in this region during the 16th and 17th century is well documented with several archaeological and historical remains in several countries in the region beyond the Emirates, such as Oman and Bahrain.

In the United Arab Emirates, in addition to the chronicles and documents that document and attest this presence at a historical level in different locations, it is clearly visible in archaeological sites such as the remains of the 17th century Portuguese fort in Khor Fakkan, for example. In Portuguese chronicles described as Corfacão.

In 1517, the Portuguese writer Duarte Barbosa recorded that “Here [Julfar], (now in the Emirate of Ras Al Khaimah) is very great fishery as well, of seed pearls, and the Moors of Hormuz come hither to buy them and carry them to India and many other lands”. As Portuguese, and someone to whom this country and region says so much in emotional terms, this connection is very interesting.

What is your favorite spot in Dubai?

It's not easy to choose just one. Of course, the historical part tells me a lot and is one of my favorite places, but let's leave History for a bit, and perhaps one of my favorite places to be, which always leaves me feeling as if it were the first time, are the Dubai fountains.

Often, alone, I sit on the steps of Souk Al Bahar and watch various dancing fountain shows. For the show itself, of course, but the entire environment around the show. One of the things that I find fascinating, and not just in Dubai, is the connection they make between the past and present. This is

visible in the architecture. The modern, Burj Khalifa, with the architecture and colors that show the traditional in Souk Al Bahar.

Everything there makes me super emotional. Maybe because it was one of the first visits I made when I arrived. It is stunning!

What future projects or goals do you have in promoting the UAE and Middle Eastern culture globally?

I can start answering this question by mentioning a quote: "a no, is not a rejection, but a redirection." Perhaps my path is not to work directly only in an archaeological excavation in the field, but to use my knowledge to make known the knowledge and product of that same excavation that my colleagues bring to light.

I really enjoy working as a tourist guide in the field, meeting new people, their stories, etc; my licenses will always be renewed, but as someone who doesn't like to stagnate, I have several goals and perhaps some dreams that I would like to see come true. As for dreams, and maybe it's not just a dream, but a big plan, I'll keep it to myself for now. But as for objectives, and I think this will be the first time to say it out loud, because it was something that grew over time, I want to have my program in which, by traveling through all these countries, I can show and talk about them. Culture, history, traditions, people.

Imagine staying a couple of days with some tribes, go the middle of the desert or oasis and watch and learn everything that the books don’t tell me? And be able to transmit all this? It will be amazing!

I know that we are in a time that it seems that everyone wants a presence online and people are judge because of that. I think this stigma has to go also. We are in the XXI century. I born in a time that we travelled in our imagination and new about ancient treasures through the magazines, but times changed, and we can now travel using both ways.

When I receive messages from people who see my videos and stories that I share, about everyday things, my experience with natives, customs, habits, traditions and tell me that they really like knowing these things, it makes me think that above all, I can do something with substance, that brings knowledge, that adds value.

When I say that I'm speaking out loud for the first time, it's because of a lot of insecurities, fears, hesitations, like everyone else I believe, that "I'm not capable" is always present. Age! I am still learning that there is no age to follow your dreams. Thinking that I don't have the best material to make videos for example, often not having the means to travel where I want, but these are all excuses. Very close to us we have a lot of material to work with and so much to show and talk about.

After all, I believe I have already reached an audience with a 5-year-old cell phone, a selfie stick and traveling by bus and metro.

Now there's a lot of talk about influencers, being an influencer, but that's not the goal. Although of course, we always end up influencing at one point or another, in the literal sense of the word. But what I want to say is that, despite the magnificent restaurants, beautiful swimming pools, fantastic tourist sites, which even I show and talk when the opportunity arises, the countries and region have much more to offer.

I know I can add much more. A client of mine, in one of the first groups I did as a tour guide, said to me at the end of the tour:

'You're a good storyteller'. (Sometimes we need to listen more others than our fears and beliefs and believe them).

Maybe it's time to, above all, believe in myself. The right people and events will not appear in our comfort zone.

Interview: Ana S. Gad

Photo / Video: Monica Teresa Calado Instagram / YouTube / Teresa of Arabia